Brugge: Rustic Medieval Village or Kitchy Carnival Town?

Last weekend was a holiday here in Brussels (they celebrate Labor day May 01). We decided to take the train over to Brugge. Everyone raves about the city, so we figured we'd better go, although it has always been a good conversation piece when nothing else pops up. "So, you haven't been to Brugge? Oh, you really must go!.."

So we walked to Brussels Central station Saturday morning and realized that our decision to travel to Brugge on a holiday weekend was perhaps not so well conceived. The station was packed full of people. We bought two weekend tickets to the "Brugge area" for 26 Euros. I think if you were planning a full weekend of travel this would be a great deal. It apparently allows you to train to Brugge (or Ghent) or any other village in the area and back to Brussels until the final train Sunday night. Tickets in hand, we bought supplies for our trip. I bought a copy of The Times (of London) for a shocking 4.50 Euros. Ouch. Still, I was not traveling without reading material, so we forked it over and I grumbled and walked to the platform.

The train to Brugge was the fullest I have seen. In fact, we could not get to the seats, and had to stand (or sit on the floor) in the boarding area between cars. The center aisle in each adjacent car was full of standing people as well. An hour later we arrive in Brugge, already very weary of crowds.

So, first let me accentuate the positives. The architecture in Brugge is worth seeing - absolutely. The buildings are some of the oldest in Belgium, dating to the middle ages, having avoided the attention of two world wars. It is a coastal canal city and reminded me a bit of Amsterdam. We took a canal tour that was moderately interesting and they pointed out in three languages a few of the more famous sites. There are still some shops that I would call 'authentic' or 'period-esque', selling tapestries, lace and other items for which the city is historically famous.

Also, it surprised me that for a city so packed with tourists, they kept it amazingly clean. I didn't see anyone cleaning, so I can only imagine the tourists for some reason showed more respect for the place than they do for where they live here in Brussels.

But I must comment on how the current world has infiltrated this historic place. On the outskirts of the village, as you walk toward the city center from the train station, you pass this horrible row of carnival games and rides. It is like something from a Texas county fair, but with more neon and thankfully no corn dogs. The main streets to the city center are occupied by large commercial clothing and jewelry retailers...as if you had transplanted any modern mall directly into the ancient buildings. I found this irritating, and contrary to the intent of my visit and expectations for the place.

I suppose the remnants of medieval walls and towers are no match for the invading forces of modern global commercialism. To be fair, the town was always based on commerce, even in medieval times, so to embrace the historical period completely would in some ways be contrary to the history of the place. I could have done without the carnival games and yes, even the free-standing water toboggan river ride.

HINTS:

• you can get a weekend train ticket to the entire Brugge 'area' for about 13 euros. You might considering putting Ghent on the itinerary as well.
• don't go to Brugge on a holiday weekend. In fact, if stores are open (not certain) go during the week.
• if you decide to drive to Brugge, park your car outside the town. Driving in the town itself is pure folly. I laughed at and pondered the idiocy of people who were trying to drive through the town, inching forward slowing with their cars surrounded by pedestrians.
  
• don't go expecting to pay a fair price for a beer. The pricing was as high as any place I have seen in Brussels.
• if you like photography, this is the place to bring out the good camera.